Climbing with the Girls, and Ryan

Ryan had the day off, Kellie wanted to go climbing, I happened to talk to Raina for the first time in months, and Joni had a babysitter. I was amazed that we all managed to meet at my house and by 10 and went ice climbing. Ryan drove his mini van with us gaggle of girls. It was a day full of laughs for sure.

At base of the approach pitches

 

I wanted to lead the right pitch since I got to lead left the week before. It was nice, not as soft as it looked, but decent.

 

There are very few places that I want to go ice climbing at with more than 3 people, but this place is perfect.  Super fun day out with good friends.

Kellie enjoying the short window of sun.

Hillside Pillars

Awesome day out to the Hillside Pillars. The lack of snow made the approach straight forward and easy.

Kellie almost to the base of the pillars.

 

The left line looked more aesthetic to me, a grey little wisp of ice, but protectable. Typical early season rock chimmney top out.

 Kellie on the left Pillar

 

Its rare to see the sun ice climbing in mid November, but Kellie and I savored the 30 minute window it hit us.
 

 

Heading Down

 

First Day of the Ice Season: Hillside Pillars

I forgot the packraft at home, so I was pretty psyched that the river was frozen enough to cross on foot, one never knows this time of year. There was a lot of snow and no one had been up the route as far as we could tell. I half climbed, half shoveled myself up the first easy pitch.

The climbs were in great at the top. I told myself I didn't really need it or want it and gave Bill the lead on both pitches. Its weird how this always bothers me in retrospect.

Bill on the Right Pillar

 

Whenever I get the screaming barfies to the full effect it makes me question  the pain vs reward ratio inherent in ice climbing.  My pinky was so frozen I couldn't feel it in my glove.  I had to pause on a ledge and try not to cry and vomit at the same time.  Although after that my hands burned and were quite hot....and running laps is pretty fun.

Bill on the Left Pillar

 

The sun didn't shine for long on us, but it sure was pleasant. 

Bill Heading Down

 

What happens when you have nothing to prove anymore...not even to yourself?

Hillside Pillars

I had a super fun day out with the girls up at the Hillside Pillars. Caitlyn and Erin made good company out on a cold blue day. The approach pitches to the pillars are huge, and both the left and the right pillar were larger than the last time I was here. Its such an easy place to be at all day. The sun touched the left pillar at about 4pm, spring is around the corner!

 

Caitlyn on the Left Pillar

 

We climbed both sides, then ran some laps. I only had to don my headlamp for the last rappel. It was a great day out. Still feeling fat and weak, but am hoping to see improvement any day.

My camera battery died early on, so thanks for all the slide show pics Erin!

Hillside Pillars

On cold days the Hillside Pillars is one of my all time favorite routes. The long approach up easy ice and snow combined with a level amphitheater with single pitch routes is perfect for staying warm.

Rapheal and I were taking our time enjoying the scenery when we got passed by two young guns.

Rapheal Hiking Up the Gullet

 

The Hillside Pillars

 

Both routes were in and we ended up on the right by default. Super fun climbing, albeit a little brittle.

Rapheal Climbing

 

Another huge plus to this route is that even on December 14th we got about 15 minutes of direct sunlight. Its those little things I really like.

Rapheal and Me

 

Hillside Pillars, Hatcher Pass

 

 

 

 

Hillside Pillars: Hatcher Pass

Rapheal is one of my oldest best friends. I have known him for over half my life, and I'm really excited that he has taken to ice climbing : )

Rapheal and Me

 

Rapheal Climbing the Middle Steps

 

One of the best parts of the whole day was the sun. Although it never actually hit the climbs, it came to the edge of the gully, and Rapheal and I sat in the direct sunlight for about a half hour. It was so wonderful, and made the pictures look down right golden.

Absorbing Sunlight

 

The climbs are in so much thicker than when I was here a few weeks ago...Although the middle line probably had the least consistent ice....oops! But it was still super fun climbing.


Rapheal Climbing the Schmegma

 

Mini Slide Show

Pack Raft Assisted Ice Climbing: Hillside Pillars

I have to admit that I felt pretty funny when I called Bill and told him that the pillars were in but there was no way that I was going to cross the river on foot...but I suggested a packraft....seeing how Bill crosses the mat river by packraft to get to his house, I knew he wouldn't laugh at me....he just said Ok....The river is really deep right now because the channel is narrowing from the shelf ice forming and the rocks becoming surrounded by ice....instead of blowing up both boats we just used Bills and he made two trips, one for the packs and one for me.

Bill the Ferry Man

 

I thought both of the pillars looked a little dodgy, so when Bill asked me if I had a preference, I said that we should just let the rosh decide....I won the left, Bill the right. The left was thickish at the bottom, thin in the middle, and no ice at the top...I placed my first specter!! There is no way it would of held a fall, but it was still good mental pro.

Me on the Left Pillar

 

The right pillar where Bill climbed up was kind of a hollow bell, it was so pretty to see the water running behind just a few inches of ice....

Ninja Bill, Can You Spot Him?

 

I think it probably snowed 6 inches in the 3-4 hours we were up there....it was NUKING!! So after we did the routes we bailed quickly....feels funny to be in a huge avalanche gully during a snow storm...

Slide Show!

Afternoon at the Hillside Pillars

I've been to busy lately to sneak out for a full day of climbing, but I have been making the most of the late afternoons. The climbing is pretty amazing right now.

I was happy to see that an avalanche has come down the gully that the pillars are in, that means there's less hanging above!

Heading up the Debris Pile

Ryan Heading Toward the Pillars

I have to say that I was a little surprised when I asked Lynn and Ry if they were ready to rosh, and Lynn stepped up. I wasn't surprised when fate delivered her the lead. She climbs so hard, and tends to lead way under her climbing ability. She totally rocked this lead. It was impressive. The climbing was a little thin at the bottom and steep at the top, by far her best lead of the season. Go Lynn!

Lynn Rapping Her Awesome Line

Certain aspects of the mountains in Hatcher pass were coated with the volcanic ash from Redoubt. The light wasn't great, but the picture below was the best I could capture!

Ash Covered Mountains

When we got back to the car someone had left Lynn a message on her car, a little raunchy, but we still all had to laugh.

The Hillside Pillars

Ry, Lynn, Hugh, and I all woke up late and made a hungover assault on the Hillside Pillars. Well first we had to push Hugh's car which had gotten stuck in his driveway, but after that detour we still made it to Hatcher Pass by 1pm, plenty of time!

The snow was knee deep but so fluffy and pleasant at the same time. The climbs looked similar to the way they had a month ago. The left one was thinner at the bottom, but had gotten thick at the top, the rock chimneys is still bare of ice.

Me Leading the Left Pillar
Photo by: Lynn Peterson




Hugh is a die hard skier, and I don't think I have ever been out climbing with him before. It was fun to have him along, plus as a newbie he is a great ego boost,"that's the hardest route i've ever done" : ) Super good day out with friends!

Me, Lynn, and Hugh

Hillside Pillars

Lynn, Ryan, and I have been watching the Hillside Pillars slowly grow over the last month, and yesterday we decided to go check them out. The river crossing was super straight forward and easy. The first pitch was in great and had minimal snow. The weather was partly clear and very calm. The snow was light and fluffy, and there is only a mini cornice hanging above the climbs.

Ry Approaching the Upper Pillars

 

Ry and Lynn standing Below the Left Pillar

 

Ry won the rosh on the left pillar, and got to do a super fun and spicy lead. He managed it in fine style.

Ry at Leading the Left Pillar

 

I got the default lead on the Right pillar. I kinda wanted to lead the proud chandliered line, but wasn't feeling it, so went for the thicker left line, with the obligatory rock wedge. We toproped the middle line afterward, and I was so glad I didn't lead it, I think I probably would have cried. It was wicked steep, and the pro would have been very difficult to manage. Maybe next week!

Ry Cleaning the Right Pillar

 

All in all a fantastic day out with two of my favorite people, on my favorite climb.

Fast and Fabulous Day

I wanted to spend all day Sunday in the mountains. I have been so nuking busy the last three weeks, that I haven't gotten to play since I went to Valdez. Play time is important to me, without it I easily become disenchanted with the rest of my life. Although I didn't get to do what I had planned, and I didn't end up spending all day in the mountains, it was enough to satisfy my inner climbing junkie.

Me in the Mini Cave Below the Pillars

 

I do have to say that nothing has slid down this HUGE avalanche gulley all season, which is very unusual. So what that means is that when it slides, its going to go big and there is going to be massive carnage if anyone is unlikely enough to be in the gulley when it happens.

The Left and Right Climb

 

The right pillar wasn't nearly as hero as I wanted it to be. It was a combination of almost sun baked/reform, with a lot of hollow chandeliery stuff. It still climbed well, but after spending the weekend on guiding on Ripple in the Canyon, it definately kept me on my toes.

The Right Climb

 

This route was my first lead climb. I still remember my friend Sharmin yelling at me to put in another screw, but my eyes were on a good stance that just seemed to get farther and farther away. Part of me feels like I should be trying to find new routes to do, since I have probably climbed the Hillside pillars at least 50 times, and the other part of me loves it up here and is content to just be in the mountains.

My Standard Top Out Self Portrait

 

There is something insanely gratifying to me about going out by myself. Maybe its from my formative climbing years when I always needed a stronger male partner to lead the routes, and I secretely wanted to be on the sharp end but was to scared to make the moves, since someone else always would. Who knows, but I do know that I love the freedom of being confident enough to climb by myself.