Keystone Greensteps

Flakes of snow as big as quarters were streaming determinedly down from the sky as Bill and I pulled out of MaKenzie's driveway. In my irrational optimism I hoped that maybe just maybe it was only snowing in town. Hah Ha ha! Our aspirations to go ski 2 hours through a huge avalanche corridor that is Sheep Creek seemed foolish in such a storm.

There was a beautiful line across the Lowe river we walked to, but the only way across was through the water. I'm just not that hard core when there are other less wet options. So back we went to the large parking lot across from the main Keystone climbs.

Green Steps

 

The only reason I considered Green steps a good option is because I knew Billmier would lead every pitch if I didn't want to. The benefit of climbing with a stronger partner is you always get to climb, but when my confidence is low its easy to pass on the lead. When we got to the base I looked up and saw an easy line with lots of steps and felt like stepping up to mollify my previous days short comings.

True to Valdez style, it wasn't as easy as it looked, plus it felt steeper and longer than it ever has before. Definitely the max of my current lead potential right now. The second pitch was beautiful, wet in places, steep enough to be engaging but not lethal, maybe one of my all time favorite pitches.

Bill Starting the Top of the Fourth Pitch

 

Snow Covered!

 

Bill Rappeling into the White

 

A great day out full of flaming calves and burning biceps. Its so much more satisfying retrospectively to have lead pitches that are hard for me. I'm glad I stepped out there.

The Greensteps and Bridal Veil Link Up

When Billmier mentioned doing a Bridal Veil Green Steps link up I was almost immediately on board. I wasn't sure of success, but felt like I was at least up to the challenge. I have to admit I feel a little bad for not climbing with Ry and Kremer, but a team of 4 is pretty cumbersome and neither of them were super psyched on the idea. So they went and climbed Simple Twist and Glass Onion.

Billmier and I did the customary rosh at the bottom of Greensteps and I won the first pitch. He had this idea of leading 2 pitches in a row then switching, I've never climbed like that, but decided there was no harm in trying it. The first pitch was super fun climbing and didn't feel as hard as it usually does. The second pitch of Green Steps was probably the best pitch of the day in regard to ice quality and fun of climbing.

Glorious Ice on Pitch Two of Green Steps
Photo Thanks: Bill Billmier

 

Things moved pretty steadily, I never really rushed or neglected to put in pro, and neither did Bill, I was super stoked that we made it to the top in about 3:20. Since a party had climbed it a couple days before there were awesome v-threads all the way down, and pulling ropes down steep, smooth ice is pretty easy! Under four hours up and back down...

Keystone Green Steps

 

There were two guys climbing Bridal Veil when we walked over. We hung out at the base of the route and debated the probability of getting hit with ice....it was highly probable. Instead of sitting in the wind on the snow we went up to Kremer's van and hung out while the two guys finished the last pitch.

I offered to keep the rotation as it had been, instead of re- ro-sham-bo-ing at the base of Bridal Veil. I didn't really want to lead the killer pillar and Billmier was feeling pretty feisty and seemed more than happy to take in on. So I led the first two pitches, which were super long and fun.


I was in the sun by the top of the third pitch and it was stellar. The snow and ice around me was glowing as I belayed Bill up.

Bill Coming up the Second Pitch

 

Billmier cruised the killer piller with barely a pause, and I was on my way up soon after. It was a super fun line, steep but doable, and I had some good pick holes to choose from!

Billmier on the 3rd Pitch: the Killer Piller

 

Neither Bill or I had ever done the last pitch on Bridal Veil because it usually looks super unappealing. However it was mostly ice right now, and was a stellar grade 3ish pitch. It was the 8th and last pitch of the day.

There was not a single V-thread on the upper parts of Bridal Veil, and we decided to walk to Green Steps and made use of the V-thread highway down that. Ryan met us as the base and helped us coil our ropes and we were back to the van before we even needed headlamps...Super Awesome Day!!! Lots and lots of beautiful pitches, I am so psyched that we pulled it off!

Slide Show of the day!

Good Bye Valdez

It's only going to get better!

Bridal Veil

 

GreenSteps

 

Ryan in the OM Gym

 

Keystone Greensteps

Keystone Greensteps is the right hand climb in this picture. It is about 700 feet high, and is done in four pitches. If you look closely you will see a black blob on the climb, that is me. (photo by Lynn Peterson)

This is a picture of the whole climb, can you still see where i am at? (photo by Lynn Peterson)

This is me starting off on the first pitch. I was so excited to do this climb it only seemed fair that I won the first Rosh.

This is me leading the first pitch

Ryan leading the second pitch.

This is my victory self portrait at the top of the third steep pitch.

This is Ryan seconding the third pitch.

This is Ryan leading the fourth and last pitch

This is our brief foray into Bear Creek.

John broke through a snow bridge and lay turtled, with his skis on. As you can see no one was rushing over to help. It was quite funny and we all got some great pictures instead.