Spring Fling October Style

Ry and I were finally on the ball our last day. I was super motivated to climb before we had to drive back to town. We debated White Knight briefly and then decided for the closer and longer option up Spring Fling.

It was FREEZING out when we left the car. I hiked with my gortex, super puff, and face warmer. The lodge owners said -7 and I believe them!

Ryan Heading Up to Spring Fling

 

Why is it that most ice climbs are steeper and harder than they look? I'm definitely not at my best right now! The ledges I spied from below in reality were too down-sloping and steep to get much purchase on. I just got the new black diamond spinner leashes, and still have to say that for steeper pure ice, leashes save my arms and offer more security. I do like leash-less for mixed, or grade 3 and lower, and for how easy it is to switch tools to move around broken bulges or rocks.

Pitch One

 

If I could climb routes like this every day I would be satisfied forever. The views were gorgeous, the steep rock walls truly make it feel impressive, and the ice climbing was interesting. This is my favorite style of climb, so fun it makes me giddy.

Ryan Heading up to the Belay

 

We decided to try our luck at rappelling again since our ropes weren't frozen and it seemed like a straighter shot down...plus v-thread practice is invaluable ; )

Ryan Rappelling

 

It was a quick and easy rappel, and we were back to the care before dark and in Anchorage by midnight. Awesome day out!!!

Slide Show!



T.9:D.8:EG.3000

First Day of Ice Climbing: Nabesna

I've been to Nabesna once before about 10 years ago, and my memory of the place had definitely faded, so much so that it was almost like being there for the first time again. As Bill and I drove down the road, the light was good and we immediately saw the big streak of ice coming down the mountain behind Jack Creek. It doesn't look as huge in the pic below, but on the right side of the pic you can see a huge gash and a small streak of white above the pine trees.

The Mountain Behind Jack Creek

 

The Ice Streak

 

We pulled over, looked through the binoculars, and decided to go check it out. The walking was almost great through a couple of inches of snow on top of either spongy tussocks or slippery rocks, the bushes were marginal and it took us about an hour to get to the base of our route.

Heading up the Drainage

 

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Bill won the rosh for the first pitch. This pitch was super fun, and the first time I had swung my tools since last April. I always feel a bit off the first couple outings of the season.

Bill on the first pitch

 

Outside of a small mixed section that topped out into a loose talus field this climb was a perfect series of moderate ice steps. The thing I liked the best was the steep, narrow walls and the funky rock textures, it was truly beautiful up there. All in all it was five pitches, and we got to walk off the top.

Bill on the Last Pitch

 

More Pics in the Slideshow!


Note to self: Don't throw pack over small cliffs. I think the route is called Spring Fling. The Sportsman Paradise Lodge is warm and awesome.