First Day of Ice Climbing: Nabesna

I've been to Nabesna once before about 10 years ago, and my memory of the place had definitely faded, so much so that it was almost like being there for the first time again. As Bill and I drove down the road, the light was good and we immediately saw the big streak of ice coming down the mountain behind Jack Creek. It doesn't look as huge in the pic below, but on the right side of the pic you can see a huge gash and a small streak of white above the pine trees.

The Mountain Behind Jack Creek

 

The Ice Streak

 

We pulled over, looked through the binoculars, and decided to go check it out. The walking was almost great through a couple of inches of snow on top of either spongy tussocks or slippery rocks, the bushes were marginal and it took us about an hour to get to the base of our route.

Heading up the Drainage

 

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Bill won the rosh for the first pitch. This pitch was super fun, and the first time I had swung my tools since last April. I always feel a bit off the first couple outings of the season.

Bill on the first pitch

 

Outside of a small mixed section that topped out into a loose talus field this climb was a perfect series of moderate ice steps. The thing I liked the best was the steep, narrow walls and the funky rock textures, it was truly beautiful up there. All in all it was five pitches, and we got to walk off the top.

Bill on the Last Pitch

 

More Pics in the Slideshow!



Note to self: Don't throw pack over small cliffs. I think the route is called Spring Fling. The Sportsman Paradise Lodge is warm and awesome.

Running Shoe Mountaineering: Above Bench Lake

Slush was sliding and catching along the banks of the Matanuska river when Bill met me and ferried me across in his inflatable kayak. I always wondered how shelf ice formed, I felt like I was watching the first steps of the whole river freezing process. It was awesome.

Bill told me he had a ridge walk in mind behind his house, and since I've never hiked on that side of the Matanuska river I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to look around. We left from the yurt at about 1 in the afternoon, made it to the ridge by 3, and were on top of our peak by 5:45...from here gendarmes made the traveling a bit more interesting....

Heading Up and Around
Photo by: Bill Billmier

 

It was kind of bad timing that the most exposed sketchy part of our hike happened as the sun was setting...there was some debate as to making do with what we had or searching for something better...in the end like an addicted gambler I couldn't help but feel if we just went a little further something better would appear....and it did....barely. First time I've used a Bibler...have to say I'm now a big fan.

Our Lovely Campsite

 

After an early start we were lucky to reach the top of the ridge just as the sun crested the mountains beyond, the snow sparkled so brightly it was mesmerizing, I wish I could live a lifetime in moments like those...

Early Morning Peak Bagging

 

Billmier exists in a different reality than me sometimes...getting up at 6:30 when its dark is the most natural option in his mind...steep, sketchy slopes hardly make him pause...Even though I know what I'm comfortable with its still unnerving to have to be the one to decide if the risk is acceptable or not...because Bill is always so chill and willing....basically way more talented and less scared! That damn self preservation instinct!

Pretty

 

Between the Clouds: Lost Lake

I was looking to get out for either a long day in the mountains or a long run...Meaghan had never done the Lost Lake trail before, and I have this need I guess to initiate people to the beauty up there...We dropped the car at the fire station and stuck out our thumbs hoping to get a quick ride to the trail head. I was shocked by how many people passed us, and to add insult actually waved as they went by....I didn't want to play waving games, I wanted a freaking ride...idiots!

I think though maybe fate was just waiting for Dan to come by in his massive blue pick up truck...because only with a truck like that were we able to drive, and not swim to the trail head. He was telling us how the there is a lake that builds back under the snow glacier and every two years like clockwork it lets loose and floods the river....I swear the water was at least 3-4 feet deep on the Primrose road...lucky for us we were in a big truck and he just cruised through it.

Meaghan and I

 

The Biggest Lost Lake

 

An Awesome Trail

 

Although we made it above the fog, we never could quite escape the next cloud layer, it was stubbornly stuck to the mountains at about the 4000 foot level...but we could see the glaciers spilling to the bottom of the valleys...it was very nice!

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An Hour with School Kids: The Dome

Ryan and George Anne both had to forgo school engagements in favor of being outside for a couple hours on a stunningly beautiful fall day...it made me feel thankful that I wasn't in school....especially when Doug and I decided to go see a movie and have a beer afterwards...and GA and Ry went and did homework...

 

 

We sat in the warm sun and looked out from Anchorage all the way to the Alaska Range...this short hike has some very rewarding views.

Escaping the First Cloud Layer: Arctic Valley

Grey drizzly sky awaited me as I left the house...it was moderately unappealing to be outside...if I wasn't desperate to catch an afternoon nap, I probably would never have left the house...

The Sun Always Shines Above the Clouds

 

I love popping through the clouds into a more sunny day, all of Anchorage was covered up by thick white whip cream clouds, and I was in the sun.

Above the Fog

 

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The Williwa Football Field Loop

I recently started working nights, and am still not sure of the best way to transition on and off the night shift....so I decided to try exhausting myself in the beginning of the day so I could sleep through the middle and then stay up all night....it almost worked!

Frosty Boardwalks

 

My Shadow Never Ceases to Entertain Me!

 

The snow was a little deeper and more splotchy than I had anticipated...really beautiful and crisp up there right now...

The Football Field

 

Although I was short on time the pull of the Omalley waterfall was to hard to resist..I was so close I just had to go look. Things are definitely starting to form up right now, its very thin, with running water, but in another couple weeks if it stays cool I hope to go climbing instead of running up there!!!!

The Omalley Waterfall...(soon to be ice climb!)

 

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Last Days of Fall: Bird Ridge

An incredibly pleasant day walking through fall and into the beginning of winter.

Japanese Tourists

 

The Turnagain Arm

 

Bird Ridge

 

Eryn and the Arm

 

I had aspirations of going to the largish peak at the end of the ridge, but it didn't happen. Combination of to much snow, running shoes, and not enough motivation, maybe next year!

Slide Show!

Just a Little Farther: Arctic Valley

I finally did something that I have wanted to do for years...kind of a silly goal really, but that has never stopped me before, nor did it make me pause long on this day. The funny thing is that it is totally insignificant to anyone but myself, and I still don't care....I finally did it!

In the Snow Line!

 

Chair 1?

 

Me Being a Dork

 

I'm so old school that I used to ski at Arctic when there was a military and civillian side...the military dudes always wore jeans, and we laughed at them in our stylish florescent 80's wear and skinny skis...The old lodge that used to be up there is completely gone.

Looking Toward the Military Side

 

So I started at the golf course, jogged to the lodge, trotted to the valley that overlooks Hiland, went up Rendezvous Peak, then followed the ridgeline all the way down to where the old military ski area used to be, hit the road, and went back to the golf course. Usually it is all that I can do to get my ass to the lodge...that's why I'm psyched today I went further! Now the next goal is to do it faster...sometimes I could probably walk faster than I "run" uphill... : )

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Day One of Winter: April Bowl, Hatcher Pass

It feels like it has been raining for days, with the dreary white clouds just smothering the mountains...Ryan and I have been skiing Hatcher Pass super early season for a few years in a row, so this pattern was our cue to go check out the conditions....

And Then There is the Snow Line!

 

The decision to not go to the Lane glacier was easy since the gate at Archangel Valley road is already locked tight, seems early, usually we get at least 1-2 days out there...

Things looked white and muted in the snow storm, but after about 30 minutes of skinning we saw the light...and it was magnificent.

Skinning to the Blue Hole

 

Ryan and I at the Top of April Bowl

 

After a few phone calls Raina and Brody decided to motivate out of the gloom in Anchorage and joined Ryan and I in the sun.

Raina and Brody Skinning Up

 

There was about 2-12" of beautiful powder up there. Its still very early season with a lot of rocks, and not really much of base to speak of yet....the turns I got without hitting rocks were smooth and creamy. I am super excited that I bought a new ski helmet that is comfortable...if there is a time and place to wear a helmet skiing, this is it.

Me Making Powder Turns
Photo: Ryan Campbell

 

Slide Show!

The Bomber Traverse

Betsy, George Anne and I were all super psyched to head out of Anchorage and into Hatcher Pass to do the Bomber Traverse. It was nice and crisp as we made our way down the Mint valley. I was surprised at how brown it was up there, on Pioneer Peak everything was still golden yellows, reds, and oranges...it was lovely...It was still lovely up there, just a shade closer to winter.. : )

The Mountaineering Club of Alaska has done a lot of work on the Mint Hut and even put in a composting toilet...its pretty luxurious really...and the views are awesome.

The Mint Hut

 

From the Mint Hut we headed up valley and then were in the boulder fields. I love how many big rocks there are up there. Its so fun to kind of hop, slide, and dance my way through them, sometimes big ones move...but it keeps the walking interesting.

George Anne in Rock Land

 

Crossing the First Glacier

 

Unexpected Crevasses Sightings

 

The Upper Reed Lake

 

Slide Show!