A Quick Trip to Mad Dog

I've been hoping for years to turn Kellie into an ice climber, this season she has come out more times that all the years I've known her combined. We did a quick top rope session on Mad Dog, I'd much rather come here than go to the gym.

Kellie Rappelling down a very picked out Mad Dog.

 

Climbing with the Girls, and Ryan

Ryan had the day off, Kellie wanted to go climbing, I happened to talk to Raina for the first time in months, and Joni had a babysitter. I was amazed that we all managed to meet at my house and by 10 and went ice climbing. Ryan drove his mini van with us gaggle of girls. It was a day full of laughs for sure.

At base of the approach pitches

 

I wanted to lead the right pitch since I got to lead left the week before. It was nice, not as soft as it looked, but decent.

 

There are very few places that I want to go ice climbing at with more than 3 people, but this place is perfect.  Super fun day out with good friends.

Kellie enjoying the short window of sun.

Hillside Pillars

Awesome day out to the Hillside Pillars. The lack of snow made the approach straight forward and easy.

Kellie almost to the base of the pillars.

 

The left line looked more aesthetic to me, a grey little wisp of ice, but protectable. Typical early season rock chimmney top out.

 Kellie on the left Pillar

 

Its rare to see the sun ice climbing in mid November, but Kellie and I savored the 30 minute window it hit us.
 

 

Heading Down

 

Early Season Ice in Eagle River

Every time I come out here I get lost and so every time I remember the lost part, not the right way to go. This route is easily hidden and easily found, but no matter the obstacles its always worth it.  Ryan, Tonya and I started out and then Jon and Sue surprised us by coming out.

The first pitch was thin in places, open in others and in general early season conditions. I opted to use a rope and lead the pitch, super easy climbing, but interesting to see the water running through the clear ice.

Pitch One

There was literally just a dusting of snow and the gully up for the most part was frozen solid, definitely more interesting climbing than usual.

Tanya going up one of many small steps.

 The one big pitch on this route had a lot of ice on it, but also a lot of open sections and a scary looking top out.  No one was really feeling up to this being their first lead of the season...so we with little pride set a top rope on it, and it was awesome!

There was no point in continuing up and there was an awesome walk off just to the right of the climb that a local showed us.  A short and gentle alder adventure led us back to the neighborhood.

 

First Day of the Ice Season

Mad Dog hasn't come in this big in at least 10 years. We threw a rope down it and ran some laps.

 

Ridiculously Early Season Skiing

There was literally two inches of fresh snow on the road up to Hatcher Pass. Ryan is a ridiculously optimistic skier and wanted to carry his skis up to April Bowl, where he imagined much more snow. I decided to play along and count ski weight as better exercise.

Ryan with Independence Mine in the background

Walking the skis 

Yep we walked our skis all the way to the top of April Bowl, there was about a 2-6 inch "base" of wet snow that had frozen and was now very supportable...just not very deep.  We skied from the top dodging rocks poking through the thin crust, it definitely wasn't worthy of a second lap.  Then we took off our skis and walked back down.

At least the views didn't suck, I love looking over mountain ranges, Denali dominated the skyline.

Ryan and Me

 

A Night Away at the Snowbird Hut

I just wanted a night of solitude in a beautiful place, and the fact that the Snowbird hut has a heater makes it my favorite place! The Archangel valley road was still open and completely clear of snow. I carried my skis about 1,800 feet up to the snow line but since there is a 4,000 ft gain to the pass I got to skin up a solid 2000 ft and across the glacier to the hut.

Looking down toward the Bartolff Valley

The views did not suck.

 

Peaks in the Mint Glacier Area

Frozen runnel lines on the Snowbird glacier looked completely unappealing for skiing in the morning.

 The Snowbird Hut was awesome as usual. 

 

I used my entire container of kerosene the first night and it made leaving the next day much easier.  The skiing down was thin but supportable while it lasted.

Looking down toward Palmer

 

 I feel lucky to live in such and beautiful place and have the time off to enjoy it.

 

Packrafting the Chickaloon River

Its funny how I didn't really know what I was getting myself into when Kellie asked me if I wanted to go float the Chickaloon river. I was anticipating a 4 mile walk, and on the drive there learned it was more like 15. Leaving early made so much more sense with that clarified.

We parked on the road by the river and started hiking up a four wheeler trail, which disappeared at about mile 2.

Then we were in the trees with no trail in site. As far as off trail travel goes it wasn't terrible, but it wasn't fast either.

It became clear we weren't going to make it the whole way and so we bailed back to the river, and got ready to float.

 

I have never felt so off balance packrafting before. I flipped my boat twice on waves that would usually not make me pause. The water was high and a little pushy, but I was just having an off day I guess.

 

Fun day out in a beautiful area, and I'll definitely know more when I go next year.

McCarthy Trip

Our original plan was to hike up 8ish miles on Root glacier, cross an unnamed 5,000 ft pass, descend  to the headwaters of McCarthy creek and float back to town.  But its a long drive to McCarthy and  it seemed like every creek and river was turbulent, and muddy from all the snow melt.When we got to McCarthy we road our bikes to McCarthy Creek the river was high and brown, not good.

It took a lot of vacillating back and forth, and even packing our boats, before we could finally give up the dream of floating the creek.  To much snow and to high of water. We enjoyed an amazing dinner at a perfect campsite by the river, I love being on vacation.

Kellie cooking fresh salmon in butter..Yum

 

I have always wanted to hike up Donaho Peak, it sits between the Root and Kennicott glaciers, with high glaciated peaks all around.  There was still a lot of snow on the peak, but we decided to give it a look anyway.

Beautiful Downtown Kennicott

The hiking across the glacier is easy, no crampons needed.... if your willing to look around and go around obstacles.  But the views are just stunning, there are few other places this beautiful.

Kellie hiking across the Root glacier

I was very surprised when we got to the top of the morraine pile and there was actually  Park service signage, and bear bins.  We found a lovely flat place to camp with no bugs and amazing views.

Morraine!

Kellie on the edge

 

The next morning wasn't super inspiring peak hiking weather, the top was enveloped by clouds.  But we decided we like walking and went anyway.

Kellie with the base of Donaho peak in the distance.

 

There was a short but brutal section of bushwhacking up the gully and Kellie told me how she really feels about bushwhacking. She said she never wanted to bushwhack again even if it meant not going to some places, and she sounded like she really meant it!!!   (To bad we missed the awesome trail on the way up, but we were both thankful for it on the way down.)

 

We persisted through the vegetation and finally got into the gut of the peak and then it was just lots of up...mostly hard snow with a couple scary sections of loose steep rock.

I was kind of over the whole adventure by the time we got to the ridge, but the thigh deep post holing and shrouded summit clinched it for me.  After a sit down Kellie decided she needed another look and set off.  The thigh deep shit didn't last forever, and she made it through....how could I resist after that?

Kellie in the fog headed toward the summit

 

The clouds at the top relented for intermittent views of the area...it was beautiful.  We could see the route we had wanted to do to McCarthy creek, and were glad we were not over there..too much snow.

Summit Shot

Kellie hit an ice lense on the way down the steep, rocky gully and almost died.  Luckily she managed to control her slide and only lost a lot of skin. This picture was the next day after she cleaned them again in some glacier water.

 Hand Carnage

 

It was a super fun trip, I'd probably wait till there was less snow in the gut to do the peak again. I still would love to go back for the original trip, but might be better in the fall.

 Looking back to Donaho Peak