Friday, March 26, 2010

Eklutna Glacier Area

I was so excited to be invited along on Tanya and Jon's day out. They had spent the previous Tuesday bolting a line that Jon and I had spied a couple months ago on rappel and now it was ready to go.

I really need a snow-go, every time I ride on the back of someones machine I get super jealous. The drive across the lake was beautiful, a thin layer of mist was revealing big white mountains and a perfect blue bird day.

Tanya and Jon


The first pitch is either a steep snow ramp or 100 feet of grade 2+ ice and then a steep snow ramp. I was itching to sink my tools into some easy plastic ice and it didn't take long to belay Tanya and Jon up to where the more interesting climbing began.

Jon Leading the Second Pitch


Jon made the climbing look really easy, although I found it to be a little awkward and tenuous. Rock climbing with tools and crampons is tricky for me, but I like it and would like to get better at it!

The third pitch was definitely the crux. Right off the bat the rock moves were thin and steep, but then after that there was awesome truly mixed ice and rock. It was a super fun pitch. Also led in fine style by Jon Cobb.

Tanya on the Start of the Third Pitch


The views from this route are truly dramatic. The walls of this newly erroded glacier valley are wicked steep everywhere. There are also beautiful ice climbs plastered to many of these steep inspiring walls. I love it back here, with a snow machine its almost as easily accessible as Eklutna trips are no problem.

Looking Down

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