Ryan and I pulled into the Paradise lodge cabin at about 1 am, it took us about 6 hrs to drive up. We were in the small cabin this time, but it was perfect, the toyo stove had it at 77 degrees within ten minutes! Loving it.
We got a bit of a late start due to coming in so late, and then Ry's car broke on the way to climb. We macguyverd a wire back together with some duct tape and secured the battery, and amazingly enough the car started!
Finally we parked at Jack creek, officially now a part of the crack of noon club.
Awesome Tundra Walking
It took about an hour to get into the corridor and I was surprised at all the drips coming off the walls. A beautiful place for sure.
In the Corridor
We looked at the climb, a wing and a prayer, but the top pitch looked pretty ugly, and definitely not like something I wanted to be my first lead of the year. I like to warm up to ice climbing slowly.
The climb in the corridor was thick, wet and overall just lovely. The only downside to wet ice, is frozen ropes...which really suck.
Ry at the Base of a Step
We got to the top of route at about 6pm, just as the sun was leaving alpenglow on the mountains. We knew we would be in the dark soon, so we sat at the top for a little while and enjoyed the view.
Topping Out at Sunset
The last time I did this route I walked off across the mountain and down by spring fling. We decided to try and rap the route instead this time, and I think it would have been ok, except our ropes were frozen. It was a little dodgy, but overall fine for the rappel, but pulling the ropes around corners didn't go so great. It took us as long to get down as up, and it was much harder!!