Sheep Creek with Secret Journey and Tsuri Gane on the Left
When Ryan and I were back here last December we got shut down by a large pool of water and sub zero temps, this time the pool wasn't even visible. Huge avalanche deposits filled the river and we walked up and down them cognizant of how much snow was underneath our feet, reinforcement for why I will never come here when its snowing.
The amount of ice in the back half of this canyon is mind boggling. I could spend my next 10 Valdez trips here and still have more to do. Long, Long, Long routes. I was racking up at the base of a beautiful line in the pic below, listening to the tinkle of ice and snow roll down the route, then a rock came down. I've had bad experiences with rockfall in Sheep creek, I just couldn't rationalize making the same mistake again, even though I really wanted to. When you see one rock, and the route is still in the sun, chances are high that there will be many more to follow. I just couldn't do it.
Ryan with the Route We Wanted to Climb
We ended up trying to get farther back into the canyon, I always feel pulled to see what is around the next corner. After a few alder escapades and a cliff at the end, our need to go on was extinguished, so we turned around and dropped a line down the steep ice in the pic below.
Ouray Ice Park in Valdez
It was about 50 unrelenting feet of dead vertical ice. I've never gotten the screaming barfies so bad. The pain was ridiculous as my fingers regained circulation, surely this is a sign pointing toward the absurdity of me ice climbing? An amazing day out nonetheless.
3 comments:
Hi!! I stumbled across your blog this morning... I was looking on google for info on Keystone Greensteps climb and one of the hits was your post about the linkup with Bridal Veil. That happens to be exactly why we're headed down there this weekend.
If all goes well Saturday, we're tossing around ideas for Sunday and Sheep Creek looks awesome! I was wondering if you'd be willing to tell me where it is exactly and if you think conditions are still good? I don't know how the weather has been since you were there but it's supposed to snow Sat. which might put it out of the question from the sound of things.
BTW, I think it's totally awesome that you're such a great climber! I haven't met a lot of other women climbers and I think it's pretty awesome to see women that could kick most guys butts. I took a climbing season off last year and this winter (my first in AK) hasn't been so stellar. Hopefully I'll get my groove back next year.
Thanks!! Morgan
Hi!! I stumbled across your blog this morning... I was looking on google for info on Keystone Greensteps climb and one of the hits was your post about the linkup with Bridal Veil. That happens to be exactly why we're headed down there this weekend.
If all goes well Saturday, we're tossing around ideas for Sunday and Sheep Creek looks awesome! I was wondering if you'd be willing to tell me where it is exactly and if you think conditions are still good? I don't know how the weather has been since you were there but it's supposed to snow Sat. which might put it out of the question from the sound of things.
BTW, I think it's totally awesome that you're such a great climber! I haven't met a lot of other women climbers and I think it's pretty awesome to see women that could kick most guys butts. I took a climbing season off last year and this winter (my first in AK) hasn't been so stellar. Hopefully I'll get my groove back next year.
Thanks!! Morgan
Ps- sorry if this posted twice, I'm a little confused by the entry method.
Hi Morgan,
Sheep creek is about 19 miles before you get to valdez. You can park above the bridge in a parking lot on the left as your driving down. The avi danger increases the farther back the canyon you go. If it has been actively snowing, I'd wait for a high pressure, you'll see what I mean if you head back there! The bridal veil/greensteps link up is stellar, and the other ice in keystone canyon is awesome too, a safe bet for good climbing in avi conditions. I have 2 guidebooks for ice in valdez, both out of print, but if you wanted to make a copy, I'd be happy to pass it on to you. Have fun down there!!! Super jealous, I'm heading to AZ next week so my ice season is about over : ( We should meet up some day, its nice to have some lady partners! Feel free to email me at mtngrlinak@gmail.com if you want more beta.
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