Amulet Peak Approach

Ryan and I met Bill and Betsy at Hicks creek. Our packs went into the sled, and Ryan, Bill and I took turns riding on the back of the sled and machine. Betsy dropped us off a few miles down river at Monument Valley. From here we skinned through the trees and contoured around to the entrance of the side valley below Amulet Peak.

Snow Machine Ride

 

I'm glad Bill had been up here before because otherwise we would have kept going up where you need to go down to get across a very steep ravine, it was completely counter intuitive. Considering the amount of bush whacking potential, it was actually a pretty gently route up valley. It took about 8 hours to get near the base of the peak.

Camp Below Amulet Peak

 

We camped below Amulet Peak protected by a natural moat from the avalanche potential above. Every aspect had avalanche activity. There was a heavy 6-8 inches on top of 2-4 feet of sugary facets...super crappy snow pack.

I learned never to try and squeeze a hot 'mountain house' meal into a jacket pocket, it was a turkey tetrazzini explosion, complete with noodles stuck to my coat, vest, skirt, and inside pockets even.

We went to sleep with the sound of snow falling on the tent, then wind gusts and woke early to cloudy skies and 4-6 inches of fresh snow. We were all a bit nervous about heading up the very exposed gullet into guaranteed spin-drifts all day, and high potential for rock fall and avalanches. I think Bill and I were ready to talk ourselves into looking a little closer, but Ry was the voice of reason, it just didn't really add up.

Ski Track Down

 

Amulet peak is beautiful, the face is steep with a darker line of alpine ice. It looked exciting, I'd like to go back when there is less snow sitting above.

Coming down through the trees was less than enjoyable with leather boots and a heavy pack. It was slow going and next time I would probably think about climbing in ski boots rather than skiing in climbing boots.

The Brutal Tree Descent

 

Lots of big beautiful peaks back there, definitely want to go back.

Slide show!

The Awesome Pillar

The awesome pillar was formerly mentioned as Pillar X. Its pretty much one of the most beautiful climbs I've ever seen. Its about a 9 mile snow machine ride down the Mat river from Hicks creek, and then a 2 hour ski up the awesome valley. Billmier and Jon did some awesome trail maintainence with their saws and now it would probably be even faster...: )

The Awesome Pillar
Photo By: Billmier

 

I've been thinking about this climb ever since me and Billmier went there a few weeks ago, I really wanted to go back. I think that it was only fair that I won the rosh. It looked really doable from the bottom, if I had truly realized how hard it was going to be I honestly probably would never have left the ground.

Me
photo thanks: Billmier

 

I wish I could have done this route clean, but I got my tool stuck and just couldn't get it out, so I set a screw and had a good rest....then I used my other tool to chop my tool out...it probably really was divine intervention...or a good excuse to go back again. I'm mostly psyched to have made it up at all, it was a super hard lead for me.

Billmier Belaying an Unseen Jon

 

The Matanuska Glacier

I have to say that I have a pretty cool job working for The Ascending Path. I've been wanting to check out the Matanuska glacier for a while now, and so I was pretty psyched to be able to take clients climbing up there. It has changed SO much since the last time I was out there. The lateral morraines are sqeezing the white out of the glacier. There is a rock band that I had never seen before, and the lake that has been in front of the first ice fall for years is gone. I love glaciers, I find them incredibly fascinating, so it was a treat to be able to have fun at work!

Standard Self Portrait

 

Clients with the Ice Fall in the Background

 

I also have to say what I love about The Ascending Path is the small groups. Its just such a more personal day when I only have 3 clients. I get to know all of them, get to talk in a normal voice instead of trying to project to a big audience, and it also gives me and them more flexibility with the day.

A Huge Group...glad that wasn't me!